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Makita Portable Table Saw: Which One Fits Your Work?
The Makita 2705 is the better fit if you need a jobsite saw for repeated ripping of sheet goods, while the lighter 2704N is worth considering when portability and a smaller footprint matter more than maximum rip capacity. For trim work, either can be more saw than the task requires unless you also need to break down panels or make occasional long rip cuts.
Makita’s portable table saw range is limited compared with brands that offer several cordless and compact models. The key decision is therefore not just which saw has the larger capacity: it is whether the saw, its stand, and your workpieces make a practical setup for the jobs you do.
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Key specifications at a glance
| Model | Blade | Maximum rip capacity | Maximum cut depth at 90° | Weight | Power |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Makita 2705 | 10 in. | 25 in. right; 12 in. left | 3-9/16 in. | About 65 lb | 15 A corded |
| Makita 2704N | 10 in. | 24-5/8 in. right; 8-1/2 in. left | 3-9/16 in. | About 65 lb | 15 A corded |
Specifications can vary by market and package. Confirm the manual and the exact regional model before buying; stands may be sold separately, and a listed saw weight does not include the stand, blade, or accessories.
Choose by the material you cut
For full-width sheet goods: lean toward the 2705
The 2705’s 25-inch right-side rip capacity gives you a little more room for common panel breakdowns than the 2704N. That difference can determine whether a cut fits between the blade and fence, but it does not make either saw a substitute for a large cabinet saw or a panel saw. A 4-by-8-foot sheet is still awkward to control on a compact jobsite table.
For plywood or other large panels, support the material at the infeed and outfeed, and use a helper or a track-guided circular saw for initial breakdown when needed. The table saw is most useful for bringing manageable pieces to final width. Don’t let a panel hang unsupported or twist against the fence.
For trim and narrow stock: capacity is not the main question
Baseboard, casing, and other trim often call for lengthwise cuts, but a table saw is not a replacement for a miter saw when the job involves crosscuts or angled trim joints. For ripping narrow strips, prioritize a reliably aligned fence, a suitable push stick or push block, and enough room to keep your hands clear. Check the manual’s requirements and use appropriate guarding; avoid freehand cuts and don’t rip pieces too narrow to control safely.
If you only cut trim occasionally, the purchase and storage space may be hard to justify. A track saw or circular saw with a straightedge can be more convenient for occasional panel cuts; a jobsite table saw makes more sense when repeatable ripping is part of the routine.
For thick stock: both have similar depth
Both models list a maximum cut depth of 3-9/16 inches at 90 degrees. That figure is a clearance limit, not a promise of effortless cutting through any material at that thickness. Dense hardwood, a dull blade, or a feed rate that strains the motor can reduce cut quality and increase risk. Verify capacity at the bevel angle you intend to use, since maximum depth decreases when the blade is tilted.
Weight, stand fit, and setup space
At roughly 65 pounds, these are portable in the jobsite-saw sense—not lightweight saws to carry casually up stairs. Moving the saw often is easier with a compatible wheeled stand, but “compatible” should mean the mounting pattern and hardware are confirmed for the exact model, not merely that the stand is made for a table saw. Check the saw and stand manuals before mounting, and confirm that the stand locks securely and sits level.
Include the stand, cord, and working clearance when planning storage. A saw that fits on a shelf may still be inconvenient if there is nowhere to feed a full board through it. On site, use a stable, level surface, keep the cord clear of the cut path, and connect dust collection where practical. Outdoor use can leave sawdust in the elevation and bevel mechanisms, so clean those areas regularly according to the manual.
Decision matrix
| Your situation | What to prioritize | Practical direction |
|---|---|---|
| Frequent panel ripping | Right-side capacity and solid work support | Favor the 2705; plan separate support for large sheets |
| Occasional trim or small projects | Storage, safe narrow-stock control, and total cost | Consider whether a circular saw or miter saw better matches the actual cuts |
| One-person jobsite setup | Stand transport, setup time, and carrying weight | Budget for a compatible stand and test the complete setup before relying on it |
| Limited workshop space | Folded storage dimensions and infeed/outfeed room | Measure the whole working area, not just the saw footprint |
| Regular thick-stock cuts | Actual material, blade condition, and bevel capacity | Compare the manual’s capacity with your stock; don’t choose by the 90° figure alone |
Ownership costs and wear points
Both saws are corded, so there is no battery platform decision, but you’ll still need to account for a stand, blades suited to your material, and dust collection. Prices vary by region and bundle; compare the total package rather than the saw-only price. A typical 10-inch replacement blade is a recurring cost, and a general-purpose blade may not leave a clean edge on finish-grade sheet goods.
Blade sharpness and cleanliness affect cut quality, feed effort, and motor load. Pitch buildup, accumulated dust around moving parts, a fence that has shifted out of alignment, or a damaged blade can all lead to poor results. Before work, inspect the blade and guard, check fence alignment and secure mounting, and make a test cut in scrap. Unplug the saw before adjustments or cleaning, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for maintenance.
For a long ownership life, avoid using the table as a storage shelf, keep the saw dry, and don’t force material through a struggling blade. If the fence no longer locks consistently or the blade won’t stay aligned after adjustment, stop and address the cause rather than compensating during the cut.
Bottom line
Choose the Makita 2705 when the extra right-side rip capacity is useful for frequent panel work. Consider the 2704N when its slightly smaller capacity meets your needs and you find a suitable package for your workspace. Their similar cut depth and weight mean neither has a clear advantage for thick stock or carrying ease. For trim-only work, first compare the table saw’s footprint and setup demands with tools better suited to crosscutting or occasional straight cuts.