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Best SKIL Router Tables: Which One Fits Your Router and Shop?
The SKIL RAS900 is the clearest choice if you want a folding SKIL router table with storage and quick setup; choose the compact RAS800 if you prefer a simpler portable table and can accept fewer convenience features. Before buying either, check your router’s base and mounting pattern: “SKIL-compatible” does not mean every SKIL router attaches without drilling or an adapter.
SKIL RAS900 vs. RAS800
Both are benchtop tables intended for portable routing, not heavy production work. Their useful differences are the way they fold and store, the fence and accessory provisions, and how much setup you want to do. Published dimensions and included hardware can vary by listing or revision, so use the manual for the exact model number you are considering.
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| Decision point | SKIL RAS900 | SKIL RAS800 | What it means in use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Table footprint | About 28 × 18 in. | About 26 × 16 in. | The RAS900 gives a little more support for longer workpieces; the RAS800 is easier to fit on a crowded bench. |
| Table height | About 16 in. | About 14 in. | Allow extra room beneath the table for the router body, height adjustment, and dust hose. |
| Approximate weight | About 30 lb. | About 20 lb. | The lighter RAS800 is easier to move; the heavier table is less likely to shift if its feet are properly secured. |
| Storage and setup | Folding legs and onboard storage | Folding, portable design | Both can be put away, but the RAS900 is geared more toward keeping accessories with the table. |
| Fence and work support | Adjustable fence with featherboards and starter pin provisions | Adjustable fence with basic work support | Featherboards help control stock; a starter pin is useful for some freehand operations, but it is not a substitute for safe, supported cuts. |
| Router mounting | Pre-drilled plate; verify hole pattern | Pre-drilled plate; verify hole pattern | Confirm the actual base against the plate before purchase. Some bases require careful drilling or a compatible adapter. |
The dimensions above are approximate product-level figures, not a promise of usable cutting area. Fence position, router plate opening, and accessories reduce the clear work surface. For a shop that routinely handles wide panels or long trim, a larger fixed table is a better fit than either portable model.
Choose by shop and workload
| Your situation | Better starting point | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Occasional edge profiles; limited storage | RAS800 | Smaller and lighter, with the core features needed for basic table routing. |
| Frequent setup and put-away | RAS900 | Folding format and onboard storage make it easier to keep the table and small accessories together. |
| Long boards or wider workpieces | RAS900, with outfeed support | The larger footprint helps, but roller or auxiliary support may still be needed. |
| Router base does not match the plate | Neither until compatibility is resolved | Check the manual, plate, and router-base hole pattern; do not assume the brand name guarantees a direct fit. |
| Daily production or heavy cuts | A larger, rigid fixed table | Portable folding legs and a small tabletop are less suited to sustained heavy work and large stock. |
Router compatibility: check the base, not just the brand
SKIL’s tables are designed around common router mounting arrangements, but router models differ in base shape, hole spacing, and access to depth adjustment. Compatibility can also change between fixed and plunge bases from the same router family. Check the router manual for its base and mounting-hole diagram, then compare that diagram with the table’s plate and instructions.
- Check the exact model and base. Record the router model number and whether you plan to use its fixed or plunge base.
- Compare mounting holes. A base that appears to fit the plate may not align with the screw holes. Do not rely on visual similarity.
- Check adjustment access. Confirm you can reach the collet, switch, and height adjustment as intended once the router is installed.
- Use only suitable fasteners. The router must be held securely, with no screw interfering with the bit, motor, or moving parts. Follow both manuals.
- Plan for non-matching patterns. If drilling is permitted by the table instructions, mark and drill the plate carefully off the router. Otherwise, use a verified compatible plate or select a table that matches your router.
Never run the router with a loose mount or an improvised plate. If the router’s switch will be hard to reach under the table, use a properly rated router-table switch and follow its installation instructions.
Fence adjustment and usable workspace
A router-table fence is useful only when it stays square and parallel to the intended cut. The SKIL fences adjust to accommodate different bit positions and workpiece widths, but alignment still matters. Set both fence faces even with each other for a straight cut, or offset them deliberately for a controlled pass when the operation calls for it. Make small changes, lock the fence, and recheck before routing.
For narrow stock, use the supplied featherboards where appropriate to maintain pressure against the fence or table. They should guide the work without forcing it into the bit. For long pieces, support the infeed and outfeed ends at table height; an unsupported board can tip and change the cut. Keep the bit opening as small as practical using the appropriate insert or ring, if supplied, to reduce the gap around the cutter.
Assembly and first setup
Allow roughly 30–60 minutes for a first assembly, depending on experience and whether the router needs plate preparation. That is a planning estimate, not a manufacturer guarantee. A quick repeat setup can take only a few minutes once the table is assembled and the router remains mounted.
- Inventory parts and read both manuals. Separate the table hardware from the router hardware before assembly; fasteners that look similar may have different purposes.
- Assemble and secure the stand. Tighten the legs and braces on a level surface. If the table will stay in one place, fastening it to a stable bench reduces movement.
- Fit the router plate. Confirm it sits flush and is supported evenly. Resolve hole-pattern differences before mounting the router.
- Mount the router and check clearance. With the router unplugged, rotate the bit by hand and verify it clears the plate and fence. Confirm depth adjustment and switch access.
- Align the fence and test the setup. Use a straightedge to check the fence faces. Make a shallow test cut in scrap, then adjust the fence or bit height as needed.
- Connect dust collection and manage the cord. Keep the hose and cord clear of the cutter and workpiece path. Wear eye and hearing protection, and use the guard and featherboards as directed.
Ownership realities
On a portable table, the first issues to watch are usually alignment and movement rather than motor power: legs can loosen, a fence can drift if its locks are not fully engaged, and dust can build up around the plate and adjustment hardware. Check fasteners periodically, clear chips after use, and verify fence alignment before important cuts. Avoid overtightening plastic knobs or forcing the fence against a misaligned tabletop.
Router bits are wear items. Dull or resin-coated cutters increase heat and can leave rough edges, so clean and inspect them regularly and replace damaged bits. The table itself does not make an undersized router suitable for a demanding cut; use sharp, appropriate bits, take multiple shallow passes when needed, and follow the router’s limits.
Bottom line
For a portable setup with more storage and a little more work surface, start with the SKIL RAS900. For occasional routing where weight and footprint matter most, the RAS800 is the simpler choice. In either case, make router-base fit your first check, then judge whether the available workspace and fence support suit the stock you actually rout. If they do not, a larger fixed table is a better long-term purchase than trying to stretch a compact table beyond its intended role.