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Repeated notches are easy to lay out badly. A small error in one measurement becomes obvious when the parts are assembled, especially on stair components, shelving, roof work, and stud or joist layouts. A story stick gives you a faster and more reliable method: mark the actual spacing once on a scrap strip, then transfer those marks directly to every workpiece.
What a Story Stick Does
A story stick is a straight, stable strip of wood used as a physical pattern. Instead of measuring each notch from an end with a tape measure, you create one layout that contains the repeated positions, notch widths, and useful reference marks. You then place the stick against each part and transfer the layout with a pencil, knife, or marking gauge.
This avoids cumulative errors. If five notches are spaced 300 mm apart and you measure each one from the previous notch, a small error can carry through the entire row. Measuring each from the same end is better, but still slower than transferring one checked pattern. A story stick also lets you compare the layout against the drawing or the actual parts before cutting anything.
Choose and Prepare the Stick
Use a straight, dry strip with one reliable edge. A piece of 1-by-2 softwood is suitable for most site work. For a short run, plywood or MDF works, although MDF edges can crumble if the stick is handled roughly. Select a length that reaches all the repeated positions without a joint. The stick should be longer than the full layout by at least 100 mm, giving you room for a clear starting reference.
Dress one edge with a block plane if it is rough or bowed. It does not need cabinetmaker accuracy, but it must sit consistently against the workpiece. Check it with a straightedge and reject any strip that rocks or has a visible twist.
Mark an arrow on the stick showing the reference end and face. This prevents the common mistake of flipping the story stick and transferring a reversed or offset layout. If the workpieces have a face side, mark that too.
Make the Layout
Start from a clearly defined datum: the end of a board, a shoulder, or a known centerline. Do not simply begin from the nearest convenient edge unless that edge is part of the finished dimension. Set the stick against the drawing or a full-size reference and mark the datum line across the stick.
For repeated notches, mark the first edge and second edge of each notch. If every notch has the same width, a simple pair of marks can be copied repeatedly. A knife line is more exact than a pencil line, but pencil is easier to see on rough timber. A good compromise is a sharp pencil for the first layout and a knife only on the final workpieces.
Mark important information directly on the stick: “waste,” notch width, spacing, and which side of each line is retained. For example, if a notch is 20 mm wide, label the waste area rather than relying on memory. When notches are cut with a chisel, the knife line should represent the finished shoulder, not the center of the waste.
Use a square to carry each mark across the stick. For a layout that will be transferred to the edge of a board, extend the reference marks onto the appropriate face or edge. This is particularly useful for housing joints, stair stringer cuts, and repeated rebates where the position must register on more than one surface.
Transfer the Layout to the Workpieces
Place every workpiece in the same orientation. Mark a face side and an edge side on each board before transferring anything. Put the story stick’s reference end against the same datum on every piece, then hold its reference edge firmly against the marked face or edge.
Transfer the marks with a sharp pencil, marking knife, or combination square. For clean chisel work, use a woodworking marking knife to score the shoulder lines. Keep the knife bevel facing the waste when possible; this puts the crisp edge on the finished side of the cut.
If the boards are wider than the story stick, use a combination square to extend each mark across the full width. Do not drag the stick sideways while marking. That can turn a 3 mm pencil line into a several-millimetre spacing error. Clamp the stick if the parts are large or awkward.
| Marking method | Best use | Strength | Weakness |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sharp pencil | Rough framing and general site work | Fast and visible | Line thickness can affect small notches |
| Marking knife | Chisel-cut shoulders and fine joinery | Precise, gives the chisel a starting edge | Harder to see on dark or rough timber |
| Marking gauge | Repeated lines from a consistent edge | Very consistent shoulder distance | Less useful when the reference edge changes |
Cut the Notches Without Losing the Layout
After transferring the marks, cross out the waste on every workpiece. This simple step prevents cutting on the wrong side of a line. For a chisel-cut notch, score the shoulder line first, then remove waste in shallow stages. Start several millimetres inside the line, work down near full depth, and pare back to the knife mark.
A sharp bevel-edge chisel set is worth buying for this work. The cheaper option is fine if the chisels arrive reasonably straight and can hold an edge; expensive handles do not compensate for a dull edge. For repeated notches, choose a chisel slightly narrower than the notch so you can establish both shoulders without forcing the tool sideways.
Do not use the chisel as a lever against a thin shoulder. That can crush the edge and make one notch wider than the rest. If the notch is deep, clear waste from both directions or use a drill to remove bulk material, leaving the scored shoulders intact for paring.
Check Before Repeating the Cut
Transfer the story stick to one test piece first. Cut the notch and check its fit, depth, and orientation. Measure the first, last, and one middle position against the drawing. If the test works, use the same stick for the remaining parts.
Common failures include using opposite ends as references, flipping the stick, marking from a bowed edge, and confusing notch width with spacing. Another is allowing the story stick to shrink or swell after it has been made. Keep it dry and do not leave a thin MDF stick in the rain. For critical work, make the stick from stable plywood and write the project name and date on it.
When the layout changes, do not erase one mark and guess at the replacement. Strike through the old mark, add the new one clearly, and update the labels. A story stick is effective because it is an unambiguous physical record—not because it eliminates the need to check dimensions.