What's inside
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A story stick (also called a story pole) is a strip of straight stock marked with the measurements and reference points for one opening. Instead of reading a tape for every part of a window frame, you use the same marked stick to transfer the head, sill, jamb, and hardware positions. That cuts down on repeated tape readings and helps keep parts consistent.
It does not make a bad measurement accurate. If the opening is out of square, the stick can faithfully copy the wrong reference. Check the opening first, decide which surfaces matter, and mark the stick clearly before cutting stock.
Choose a straight, stable stick
A story stick should be long enough to span the measurement you need, but easy to handle without bending. A straight, dry strip of pine or poplar about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick and 1 to 2 inches wide works for most interior window-frame jobs. Use clear stock without knots near the marks. Sight down both edges; a bowed stick can shift against the frame and transfer a false position.
A scrap strip is fine for a one-off job if it is straight and does not flex noticeably when held at both ends. For repeated work, a piece of stable hardwood or a purpose-made story pole or measuring stick is less likely to get damaged in a tool bag. The trade-off is cost and weight: there is little benefit in buying one if a sound offcut will do.
Measure the opening before marking
Measure the opening’s width at the top, middle, and bottom, and its height at both sides and the center. Record the smallest width and height, but do not assume those numbers alone describe the job. Check both diagonals. If they differ by more than about 1/8 inch, the opening is noticeably out of square; note the difference and decide whether the frame will be fitted square, scribed, or installed to follow existing trim.
Use the same reference face throughout. For example, measure from the finished sill surface to the underside of the head, not from rough framing at one point and finished trim at another. If the frame has a rebate, stop, or offset, measure to the surface that will actually locate the part. A story stick cannot resolve an unclear datum.
Mark the stick in a useful order
Place the stick against the reference surface and transfer each important position with a sharp pencil or knife. Label every line: “sill,” “head,” “top of jamb,” or the relevant hardware location. Add an arrow or write “up” at one end. A bare set of lines is easy to misread after the stick has been moved or turned around.
Use a square to carry marks across the stick so they are easy to register against an edge. Keep a consistent face against the work, and label that face if the stick could be flipped. For a cut line, mark the waste side with a small X. This avoids confusing a reference line with the saw kerf, which may remove roughly 1/16 to 1/8 inch depending on the blade and setup.
Leave room for notes such as “opening varies,” “measure from sill,” or “allow 1/8-inch fitting clearance.” Do not build clearance into every mark unless you are certain it belongs there. Frame design, material, and the installation method determine whether parts need a gap, an overlap, or a tight fit.
Transfer marks without adding errors
To set out jambs or other repeated parts, put the story stick against each blank with the same end and face at the same datum. Register the edge firmly, then transfer the marks with a pencil and square or a marking knife. A knife gives a precise line for hand-tool work, but it can be hard to see on some woods; a fine pencil line is easier to read and usually sufficient for rougher cuts.
For repeated pieces, mark one blank, check it against the opening, then use it as a check before marking the rest. Do not stack several boards and mark through the pile unless the edges are flush and the marking tool reaches each piece cleanly. Small shifts compound, and the bottom board may end up with a different line.
When fitting by hand, a carpentry marking knife and a square make crisp transfer lines. A sharp pencil and combination square are cheaper and entirely adequate for many frame jobs. The key is a consistent reference, not a costly marking tool.
Choose a method for the job
| Method | Works well for | Common drawback |
|---|---|---|
| Story stick | Repeating several positions across multiple parts | Can preserve an incorrect mark if the datum is wrong |
| Tape measure | Quick checks and measurements that change from point to point | Repeated readings can vary with hook placement and rounding |
| Direct scribing | Irregular openings or parts that must follow a surface | Needs careful fitting and does not automatically make matching parts |
Check the fit and keep the stick
Before cutting all the frame parts, compare the first marked blank with the opening or a known-good part. Check the overall length and the position of each important feature, not just one end. If a mark is off, find out whether the error came from the opening measurement, the stick moving, or the blank being registered on the wrong edge. Correct the cause before transferring more parts.
Store the stick flat, labeled with the window location and date. A short note such as “north bedroom, inside face, sill datum” is more useful than relying on memory. Do not reuse old marks for a different opening just because the dimensions look close. Small differences in jamb depth, trim, or sill height can make an otherwise accurate stick unsuitable.
For work that spans several openings, make a separate stick for each one and keep it with the matching parts. That takes a little extra stock, but it is cheaper than recutting a jamb because two similar windows were treated as identical.